Everything You Need To Know About Simone Rocha’s Iconic Haute Couture Debut
Words: Izzy Copestake
Photography: Estelle Hannania
If a designer can hold their own at Paris Couture Week, legend status is instantly within reach. Yesterday, Dublin-born fashion designer Simone Rocha not only held her own, but held the fashion world in a trance. Guest designing a collection for none other than Jean Paul Gaultier (whose wide grin was a clear seal of approval), she put herself within reach of icon status. Showcasing an enchanting collection of the finest craftsmanship, a nod to Gaultier’s sharp edged sensuality, and her signature take on coquettish femininity which has won widespread plaudits.
Bows Bows Bows
Bows have had the internet in a chokehold for months. From accessories and patterns to more tongue-in-cheek TikToks like adding bows to ice cubes and knives, the trend cannot be discussed without giving credit where credit’s due: Thank you Simone Rocha. Bows are one of Rocha’s staples, a recognisable part of many of her own collections, her couture collaboration elevated the humble bow to one for the history books. Bow earrings were made from long strands of hair, and pale pink loose bows dangled from Gaultier-esque sailors hats. The location of the show was perfect: once an old ribbon factory and now home to Jean Paul Gaultier’s Parisian headquarters, where Rocha tied her own unique design character with Gaultier’s established edge to form the perfect couture bow (and show).
Bras Pointed Skywards
If you can’t have Simone Rocha without bows, then you certainly cannot have Jean Paul Gaultier without his iconic cone bra. Debuted in his Fall/Winter 1984-1985 show ‘Barbès’ and propelled to to mainstream fame by featuring on Maddona’s 1990 ‘Blonde Ambition’ tour wardrobe, it’s no surprise that Rocha gave a nod to the holy grail of all bras by including her own take on the pointy cup. The cone bras pointed upwards, reminiscent of both horns and growing roses that twist are creep upwards – another key feature of Simone’s designs.
A Star Studded Bench
With a wardrobe bursting with archived Jean Paul Gaultier pieces, it’s no surprise that Kylie Jenner sat front row. But we’re all jealous that she saw Ireland’s most exciting fashion designer have her big moment. Kelly Rutherford, just as stylish in real life as she is playing Gossip Girl’s Lily Van der Woodsen, sat next door. Others in attendance included Celeste, IDK SOURCE and Bella Thorne.
Aran Isles Red
Taking inspiration from funeral processions in the Aran Isles, where women dye their garments a shade of red to wear as a veil at funeral processions, red has been part of Rocha’s work from the beginning of her career. The darkness hinted by this single colour was to expected in Paris, with one model wearing a trailing red ball gown with the upwards pointing cone bra, another in a black silk gown embroidered with blood red dandelion feather pom poms, and one model simply clutching a red pair of gloves, mirroring the sense of undressing and undoing which permeated the entire collection.
Watch the masterpiece below:
